New World Conceit

After I read the latest article to extol Miami’s New World restaurants — a spread in the November issue of Gourmet magazine — I thought (and not for the last time, I suspect): Nice piece. But what about Fort Lauderdale? Long before local voters resolved to change Dade’s name to…

Din and Dinner

I remember standing in front of an open refrigerator, scanning the packed contents and yelling, “Mom, there’s nothing to eat in here!” “What are you talking about?” my mother invariably replied. “I just went shopping.” It wasn’t that there was no food, of course. Just no appealing food. Nothing interesting…

Great Taste, Less Filling

Wander down Ocean Drive, stop for a bite at the Terrace, the outdoor cafe at the Tides, and you’ll be treated to an experience much like any other on the strip: You’ll stand for long minutes at the host station waiting to be noticed, you’ll be seated at an out-of-the-way…

Busman’s Holiday

‘Tis the season to start dreading the holidays. Commercial warfare is on, tinsel and tacky lights are up, and hollow good cheer abounds, soon to be followed by the inevitable extra pounds. But those aren’t the reasons I’m miserable. I actually kind of like the round of social events and…

The Spanish Imposition

When a restaurant makes the evening news, it’s usually something you’d just as soon not hear about: a fire, a shooting in the parking lot, a record number of health violations. Whatever the tragedy, that kind of mention can spell doom for an eatery, and I cringe in sympathy for…

A Night at Provence

Every year, whether I’m teaching elementary school or college English, I ask the same question on the first day of class: Do you read? And every year I see only one or two hesitant hands go up, half-acknowledging that reading a book or newspaper might be just as legitimate a…

Go Fish

I’m not a diehard baseball fan. Not that I’ve got anything against America’s pastime, or that it completely fails to interest me. I occasionally ask my husband about the scores of important games, watch a challenging contest on television, or (more rarely) allow myself to be dragged to the stadium…

Grill Crazy

Last week I had one of those head colds no Comtrex can touch. My sinuses were so swollen that I felt like a river after the spring melt. I pulled abdominal muscles coughing, I couldn’t speak or breathe, and, let’s face it, you could have served me mud for dessert…

Balans of Power

I’ve been married for a while now, but I still remember the combination of expectation and dread brought on by a blind date. The opening of the door to a complete stranger with whom your mother, neighbor, or colleague set you up. The visual assessment, ranging from “hot stuff” to…

Use Your Noodle

In a city filled with Italian restaurants, distinguishing yourself from your competition is a tough task. After all, every Italian worth his tomatoes can make a decent gravy out of them. And every Italian’s mama has her own family recipes to pass down, whether her offspring be future restaurateurs or…

Mideast Peace

I hate being overheard in restaurants. One day at Sushi Hana, where the tables are ridiculously close together, I was telling my in-laws an anecdote I’d heard at the office. The man at the next table, a stranger, began glaring at me. “Where’d you get that information?” he demanded rudely…

Bean There, Done That

One scene from the comedy film The In-Laws has etched itself firmly in my memory: An elderly gentleman is sitting in the dentist’s chair, arguing with the doctor about why he won’t allow his rotten tooth to be pulled. “This tooth has chewed the flesh of beautiful women,” he protests…

A New Altitude

Over dinner one night, my husband and I talked about how we’d divide our possessions if we got divorced. (Nothing like a pessimist planning for the future.) I’d just read a little snippet about a restaurateur and his wife who split up: She kept the restaurant; he opened a new…

The New, True Blue

False expectations can ruin a perfectly good evening. Take for example a recent dinner my husband and I had in New York. My sister suggested we celebrate our arrival with a meal at Jean-Georges, the newest and hippest restaurant in the Trump Tower. Chef-proprietor Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who also owns the…

Absence Makes the Heart Grow Tandoor

“If I don’t get proper Indian food for a week, I get right sick.” Demonstrating her point, Jaz, a friend from London whose parents emigrated from India, coughed and sniffled in my direction. “See what I mean?” Good thing, then, that she and her British boyfriend Nicky were here visiting…

Grace and Bounty

I’m too spooked to jog around town any more, and it’s not because I ran past Versace’s house mere minutes before he was murdered. (By the time I reached the police station a few blocks away, the news cameras were already setting up.) I can accept the random Andrew Cunanan…

Thai Rocks, Sushi Rolls

As his health failed, William S. Burroughs wrote solely in his journal, passages about how his life had been lived (with excess) and how it would end (the same way). Two weeks after he passed away, on August 2, The New Yorker published several of these entries. I found one…

Dress-Down Bliss

I’m a notorious slob. Hand me the mail and I’ll drop it on the stairs; buy me an expensive evening gown and I’ll hang it on the StairMaster; dirty a dish in my house and I’ll let it sit in the sink until I have to sandblast it to get…

Winner Schnitzel

These days honest-to-goodness mom-and-pop restaurants seem about as endangered as family values. For one thing, there are fewer and fewer of them. Doubtless, people have concluded that to live, rear children, and run a business together isn’t a prescription for a fruitful long-term relationship: The 24-7 marriage can be downright…

Good Grief

“I read the review you got in New Times,” my husband said to the owner of Oasis Cafe a few months ago as he placed a take-out order. “You must be pretty happy.” “Yeah, we are. Surprised, though,” said the proprietor, who obviously had no clue he was talking to…

Duval Street Jag

I have a recurring nightmare about an all-you-can-eat buffet. I enter a dark, two-story building, whereupon a grim hostess shoves a hotel-white china plate into my hands. Then I trudge after a line of people up a flight of musty stairs, through an endless series of dining rooms, and finally…

High Rollin’

I got my first taste of caviar-and-champagne life on my honeymoon. The hubby and I flew to a gorgeous Puerto Rican luxury beach resort for ten days to recover from the trauma of the marriage ceremony. When we arrived, we went from the plane straight to the chaise longues arranged…